This week we visit another pepper and tomato dish from further north.
In the rolling hills and valleys of Piemonte, food traditions run deep, each dish a testament to history, culture, and innovation. Among these treasures is Peperoni Piemontese, a simple yet powerfully flavorful dish that encapsulates the essence of Piemontese gastronomy.
Made of bell peppers, crammed with anchovies, garlic, and tomatoes then roasted to perfection with fruity extra virgin olive oil, Peperoni Piemontese finds its origins in the renowned Bagna Cauda, a “hot bath” dip for raw vegetables and bread.
This culinary marvel is a symphony of flavors, drawing upon the bounty of the land and sea. Anchovies, sourced generously from the nearby Ligurian coast, intertwine with garlic and extra virgin olive oil from the same region, creating a tapestry of taste that reflects Piemonte’s rich culinary heritage. In fact, the ritual of dipping fresh raw vegetables into a warm dip of anchovies, garlic and oil is not merely a recipe but a cultural tradition dating back to the late Middle Ages.
Historically, Bagna Cauda was prepared in cellars to commemorate the tapping of new wine—a celebration marking the culmination of labor in the fields. The presence of anchovies in this landlocked region may seem curious, but it is steeped in folklore and legend. Tales of salt smugglers, evading high duties by camouflaging barrels of salt with anchovies, add intrigue to the narrative. Yet the true champions of anchovy proliferation were the ancóiaire, descendants of Saracens and Occitan traders who travelled the countryside, spreading the gospel of this amazing fish and its diverse uses.
The journey of anchovies from a luxury item to a staple of Piedmontese cuisine is a testament to resilience and adaptability. The prized delicacy gradually infiltrated the rest of Northern Italy, and the culinary landscape of the area was transformed,
Generations of Piemontese still gather to partake in the timeless ritual of Bagna Cauda. The slow simmering of garlic and anchovies is key, ensuring a symphony of flavors that never boil but rather melt to perfection. And while contemporary adaptations may vary, the essence remains unchanged.
Turning our gaze to the humble pepper, its journey to Italian cuisine is a tale of conquest and assimilation. Imported from South America in the 16th century, the pepper, initially dubbed "Brazilian pepper," faced an uphill battle in winning over Italian palates. However, in Naples it found early favor, preceding even the revered tomato in local culinary lore.
The archives of the 17th-century kitchens reveal glimpses of the pepper's ascent. Court chefs experimented with this newfound ingredient, concocting sauces and pairings that tantalized aristocratic taste buds. Chef Antonio Latini, a pioneer of his time, extolled the virtues of peppers in his seminal work "The Modern Cut," cementing its place in Neapolitan kitchens
Despite initial skepticism, the pepper's rustic charm won over hearts and palates alike.
In other annals of culinary history, a daring innkeeper stands out—a Veronese visionary who dared to serve pickled peppers to royalty. From Napoleon to the Emperor of Austria and the King of Naples, the pepper transcended its humble origins and forged a place in the courtly and country cooking of Europe and abroad.
Peperoni Piemontese embodies not only the classic flavors of Bagna Cauda, but serves as a reminder of the enduring power of tradition and history in the regional cooking of Italy. In Piemonte, where every dish tells a story, these culinary treasures stand as testaments to the rich tapestry of Italian gastronomy.
Peperoni Piemontese is incredible as an antipasto along with cheeses and salumi, as a contorno to roasted chicken and grilled fish, or as a meal of their own with some crusty bread and a cold glass of Roero Arneis or other dry white wine.
I love the more diminutive version of this classic dish using mini sweet peppers and cherry tomatoes, but the following recipe can be made more traditionally with large peppers and Roma tomatoes, though the cooking time should be increased by 5 or 10 minutes.
I have also taken the liberty of adding sprigs of fresh marjoram, though the dish typically does not include fresh herbs.
THE RECIPE
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