Pupazza Frascatana

Pagan Cookie from Frascati made with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Honey and Orange

Nestled amidst the serene hills of Frascati, a quaint city just a stone's throw away from bustling Rome, lies a culinary treasure that bridges the past and present: the enigmatic Pupazza Frascatana, or Puppet Lady of Frascati. A scandalous-looking cookie made of honey, olive oil and flour laced with fresh orange, shaped to resemble a young woman adorned with three breasts, this whimsical dessert embodies a rich tapestry of history, tradition, and cultural symbolism.

Most legends trac the origins of the Pupazza Frascatana back to imperial Rome, where the Sigillaria festival saw children gifted marzipan and honey biscuits shaped like dolls with three breasts, while adults exchanged earthenware figures as tokens of goodwill. This ancient tradition, steeped in symbolism of fertility and abundance, laid the groundwork for the creation of the iconic treat.

The ‘puppet’ is said to represent a goddess of abundance, paying homage to the resilient women of Frascati who have tended to the vineyards for generations. With two breasts yielding milk and the third bestowing wine, it serves as a poignant reminder of the city's winemaking heritage and the enduring spirit of its people. It has long ben said that children in the region are weened from breast milk with a drop of local white wine mixed into cows milk.

Some scholars suggest that its three-breasted form may be linked to ancient fertility goddesses worshipped by the Etruscans and other pre-Roman civilizations in the region. These goddesses were often depicted with exaggerated features symbolizing fertility, and it’s likely that Pupazza Frascatana echoes these ancient beliefs.

While local bakeries in Frascati have massive iron stamps to cut out the basic shape, each puppet is meticulously perfected by hand, ensuring that every bite is a journey through time and tradition. I have been on the search for one such stamp, but until that magical find presents itself, I make do with some crude hand drawings and a pair of sharp scissors.

“Nonna Rosana” a local baker in Frascati with her Pupazza Stamp

While the cookie itself is simple, the warmth of honey, the floral notes of the orange zest and the fruity flavors of extra virgin olive oil are an excercise in simplicity and elegance.

These are ancient flavors, transporting us to another era where food was not just sustenance, but a reflection of culture and history.

But what truly sets the Pupazza Frascatana apart is its ability to transcend culinary delight and symbolize the region itself. Rooted in folklore and tradition, it offers a tangible link to the past, connecting us to ancient customs and beliefs.

This culinary anthropology serves as a window into Italy's cultural heritage, inviting exploration of the timeless elements that have shaped its culinary landscape. Through the act of eating, we are transported back in time, experiencing the flavors and aromas of centuries past.

THE RECIPE: