Risotto alla Sbirraglia

"Policemen's Protest" Risotto with Poached Chicken from the Veneto

All across the Veneto, particularly in and around Treviso, a dish steeped in history and defiance emerges from the mists of time: Risotto alla Sbirraglia. Its origins, shrouded in the lore of a bygone era, offer a tantalizing glimpse into the resilience and ingenuity of the local populace.

19th C Austrian Soldier, Venice

Legend has it that the nickname "sbirraglia", from a kind of derogatory slang for a policeman, finds its roots in the presence of Austro-Hungarian soldiers who patrolled the Veneto and surrounding area from the late 19th century until the waning days of the First World War. Dubbed as "sbirri" by the Venetian locals, these soldiers were hardly the darlings of the community. Instead, they were viewed with a mixture of disdain and resentment.

Italian caricature of the Austrian soldier - 1850’s

Accounts from the time paint a vivid picture of the soldiers' audacious raids of local farmhouses, with chickens often finding themselves the target. The Austrian troops requisitioned such staples in the barnyard to augment their meager military fare. Furthermore, the Austrian officers expected ‘hospitality’ from the peasant families, and would even insist the very citizens whom they stole from should cook the pilfered poultry for them!

Yet, amidst the turmoil of theft and intrusion, a spirited response emerged from the kitchens of Venetian households.

The clever women would thus prepare boiled chicken, but to make the dish more substantial and go further, they added rice to prepare a risotto with the sauce from the chicken itself. They then served each portion of risotto with a piece of the boiled bird.

Aurellio Tiratelli, 19th C

Another take on the tale goes that when faced with the prospect of losing their prized poultry to the marauding soldiers, the resourceful women of the house devised a cunning plan, to cook the birds for their own families before the soldiers could get them. To thwart the plundering Austrians, they crafted a dish both hearty and satisfying, a culinary rebellion served up in defiance of oppression

And yet the first version of the dish I heard was when I was hosted by the inimitable maestra of Venetian cooking, the late Fulvia Sesani. She was the one who arranged my short but life-altering stage at Harry’s Bar, and introduced me to the mysterious, haunting and achingly beautiful side of Venezia, La Serenissima found only in the private palazzi of old Venetian families such as hers. Her palazzo in the heart of Venice was beyond all imagination, with a dining room formed in the shape of a ship’s hull and filled with an incredible collection of culinary art and antiquities.

Signora Sesani’s rendition of the Risotto all Sbirraglia legend was that the locals were so angry at the sbirri they would sometimes use a capon, or castrated rooster, poach it boiling water and then rip it apart with their bare hands, the whole while imagining that they were doing this all to the thug-like occupiers. The rice would then be cooked in the style of risotto with the rich poaching liquid and the succulent meat, then tossed in at the last moment. Of course hearing this story with her bright, mischievous eyes and the sing-song lilt of her very Venetian accent made it all the more memorable.

Fulvia Sesani, la Dogaressa di Cucina di Veneto

As with most regional recipes, there are many variations on Risotto alla Sbirraglia, including some that add tomato and some that add small amounts of veal, but the most typical is the simplest.

While any short-grain Italian rice will make an excellent risotto, because the ingredients are so few in Risotto alla Sbirraglia, I highly recommend using Carnaroli if you can. This variety of rice is often referred to as the "caviar of rice" due to its exceptional texture, flavor-absorbing abilities, versatility, and toothsome, creamy consistency when cooked properly. While Arborio and Vialone Nano are also excellent options, Carnaroli stands out for its unique combination of qualities that make it worthy of such a deliciously simple dish.

You may also notice that this is a risotto cooked without wine, as the purity of the chicken flavor is what we are celebrating here. While some may find the presentation a bit monochromatic, I find it to be a truly elegant, even austere risotto, full of the rich flavors of perfectly cooked chicken throughout the creamy rice that should not be adorned.

THE RECIPE